Types of Climbing Holds (and Where to Find Them)
The climbing holds in gyms are a testament to the natural beauty of real rock. From large ledges that mimic the comfort of a boulder to tiny micro-holds that challenge your fingertips, the variety of artificial climbing holds is a direct inspiration from nature. From pockets to slopers to pinches to crimps, we’ll guide you through every type of climbing hold, bridging the gap between the gym and the great outdoors.
What Are Climbing Holds?
Climbing holds are your tools of empowerment when climbing. In the gym, a climbing route will typically be made of all the same-colored holds, guiding you on your ascent. You’ll see some tiny holds along with these that look like all you can fit on there are your toes, and if you guessed that these are footholds, then you guessed right! These holds are not just for your feet, they can be used as handholds too, giving you the freedom to choose your own path up the wall.
What Kind of Climbing Holds Are There?
There are a multitude of types of climbing holds. We’ve compiled a list below with descriptions of each to help you identify and use different holds when climbing.
Sloper – Rounded blobs.
How to use: Slopers require friction. When using this type of hold, try to get as much of your hand on it as possible and pull away from the direction they’re facing.
Pinch – Can be broad or narrow.
How to use: Pinches require great grip strength to use effectively. Strengthening your thumb helps when climbing pinches.
Pockets – Can be two or three-fingered. A narrow hold that only a few fingers can fit in.
Mono – This is a pocket that only a single finger can fit.
How to use: These two types of holds require intense finger strength. They can be as shallow as your fingertips or as deep as your whole finger. (Because you must use fewer fingers to perform a move, injury is common among those who haven’t strengthened or rested their fingers enough)
Jug – Large, in-cut hold that can be gripped with all your fingers or whole hand.
How to use: Grab a jug with as much of your hand as possible. Your fingers should curl over the hold as if you’re trying to pull the hold off the wall.
Ledge – Large hold like a Jug, but not in cut, so you can’t wrap your fingers around it.
How to use: Body positioning is vital with ledges; try. Try to stay under the ledge until you can move off of it. Since you can’t wrap your fingers around them, the higher you climb while holding onto a ledge, the worse the hold becomes.
Crimp – Small edges that only your fingertips - fingers can use.
How to use: Fit as many fingers on the hold as possible and pull.
Crack – Gaps between holds require jamming your hand(s)/fingers/body into.
How to use: Fit however much of your hand in a crack and try to expand it to create friction on both sides.
(Crck climbing requires a specific technique to learn)
More Holds
Flake – Thin, partly detached piece of rock you can grab from any exposed side.
Footholds – Small chips used primarily for standing or smearing on.
Undercling – This can be any climbing hold used while it is upside down.
Side Pull – This can be any climbing hold used while holding on from the side.
Where Can I Find These Holds?
Don't worry about where to find these holds. They're more accessible than you might think. Most gyms have an array of climbing holds that you can explore. You’ll likely see all of these except flakes in a typical gym. A flake is a unique feature found in nature and isn’t easy to replicate as an artificial climbing hold, but that's part of the adventure of outdoor climbing.
You can also find all of these holds outside in nature. Some rock types, like Limestone, often have more pockets and pinches. In contrast, rock-like Basalt usually leans toward creating more slopers. As for cracks, you’ll mostly find them on sandstone or granite, where water has split the rock apart.