Goals for Climbing that Aren't Grades

Why Climbing Grades Shouldn’t Be the Goal

People tout objective goals as the gold standard. They provide a clear marker of success. That is what makes climbing grades and grade chasing satisfying. Ironically, grades are one of the most subjective things about climbing, with the difficulty of the same grade varying by gym, route-setter, country, and indoor vs. outdoor. Setting your sights on a specific climb is motivating, but you're opening the door to frustration and disappointment when you pick the sport route or boulder because of its grade. While you may be 100% capable of climbing the grade you've pegged, it doesn't mean climbs with easier grades won't shut you down or that because you felt great on one 5.12, the next will feel even more manageable. And there may be a million and one reasons why that's the case. As an example, you may find a climb with crimps you're strong suit. But there's a 5.11 with pinches and a big jump you could be more comfortable with. So, you sent the 5.12 in 3 attempts and have yet to finish the 5.11. Are you starting to see why climbing grades aren't the end-all-be-all?

Setting Climbing Goals That Aren’t Grades

Goals are motivating, and you can use them when climbing. Keep reading; you’ll get a taste of different goals in rock climbing that have nothing to do with numbers.

1. Learn to try really hard.

Maybe you’ve only climbed for fun in the past and haven’t pushed your limits. Instead of downclimbing or dropping when you get to a tricky spot, your new challenge can be to try hard and go for the next move.

2. Get stronger at using slopers/pinches/crimps.

Every climber has a particular hold type they love and others they consciously or subconsciously avoid. Instead of shying away from these hold types, why not make it a goal to conquer them? By challenging yourself to climb on the hold types you don’t like, you can improve your overall climbing skills and become a more well-rounded climber.

3. Fall on lead versus saying ‘take.’

Becoming comfortable falling on the lead is a goal for many climbers. If you struggle with calling 'take' instead of going for the next move out of fear of a significant fall, this is your perfect goal. Working to accomplish it will not only help your mental game in climbing but also likely allow you to try harder on climbs, pushing your limits and improving your overall climbing ability.

4. Improve your power endurance/power/endurance.

There are three main training styles in climbing: power, power endurance, and endurance. Rope climbers generally have impressive endurance, and boulders have power. Note the area(s) you'd consider your strength, and set a goal to improve the one(s) in which you feel weaker.

5. Videotape yourself to learn how you move on the wall.

Videotaping yourself climbing is hit or miss. Some people love to have the video to watch back, and others feel awkward. Regardless, it's a valuable tool for improving and learning how to move more efficiently on the wall. That is an excellent goal for someone looking to level up their climbing.

6. Try climbs you used to avoid because they looked “too hard.”

Many climbers will tell themselves they can't try a climb because the moves look too hard or the grade is too hard. However, if it seems fun and you want to, try it! Pushing yourself to try things you wouldn't let yourself may prove that you're stronger than you think. Or, at the very least, you'll have fun. Remember, climbing is about the joy of the sport, not just about the grades.

7. Improve your nutrition.

Nutrition is an essential component of any sport. There are always areas to improve in fueling before, during, and after climbing sessions or days at the crag. Nutrition goals may include upping your hydration, consistently fueling, or upping protein intake.

8. Make new friends.

The rock climbing community is an invaluable part of the sport. Tap into the social benefits by setting a goal to make new climbing friends. They could also become friends with whom you can get drinks and hang out in everyday life. Remember, climbing is not just about the physical challenge but also about the friendships and connections you make.

9. Enter a climbing competition.

Entering a climbing competition and training for it are two fantastic goals. You could narrow the goal to earning a podium spot or let it just be entering and showing up. 

10. Choose a project because you love the movement on the climb, not because of the grade.

Setting your sights on a specific climb is fine. But pick the climb because you love the movement, the hold types, or the rock type (for outdoor climbs) rather than because of its grade.

11. Try a fun climb at the end of every session.

It is easy to forget to have fun amid complicated training cycles or sessions where you perform differently than hoped. Challenging yourself to make time for fun climbs is not the easy goal it may seem, but it is rewarding.

These are only a few examples of what a non-grade-related goal may look like. Remember, don't compare your goals to others; be proud when you accomplish yours if yours is to make it to the climbing gym three days a week - excellent! If someone else decides theirs is choosing climbs with pinches, that's fantastic! Keep the goals rolling, and comment below with any others you come up with or share yours!