Humbled By Real Rock

Have you ever been humbled by real rock?

As a gym climber, you've likely experienced the thrill of conquering indoor walls. But then, the allure of real rock beckons. You gather your gear, plan the logistics, and set off with your friends for the great outdoors. The anticipation is palpable as you embark on this new adventure, perhaps even spending hours in the car to reach your destination.

After days of gathering the gear, figuring out the logistics, compiling the beta, and maybe even spending multiple hours in the car, you finally arrive at the parking lot.

Where Are All the Boulders?

Unlike climbing gyms, you'll have to take an approach to reach most rock. The approach is the hike to get to where the climbing is.

Hiking? You thought you were going climbing. You only brought your Tevas and a T-shirt. "It should be fine," you say and start walking to where Mountain Project says the trail is. You didn't pick up a guidebook because why would you need that when you have an app on your phone?

After walking over the wrong hill, you lose service. 

You hike back to the car and download all the beta.

Okay, you're back to where you lost service and realize you had missed the turn.

This time, you head back and take the clearly posted turnoff with a cairn next to it.

Now you spot them, at least you think. Those look relatively tiny, you say to yourself, looking at the boulders in the distance. How long is this approach, anyway? You check Mountain Project: 1.5 miles.

After a challenging approach, you finally reach the first boulder. Here, you encounter a group of climbers who generously share their crash pads. It's a lesson learned: outdoor climbing often requires more than one pad. But you're here to learn, and this is just the beginning of your outdoor climbing journey.

Finally, you find a V3 where everybody is crowded around and figured you can lap it a few times to warm up.

You stretch, and it's time to climb.

Rock is Sharp!

Ow! You think painfully as you pull onto the start holds. This hurts!

You're warming up, so getting used to the rock will take a minute. You sit back down and start grabbing different holds. Everything is so sharp.

People climb this all the time. Besides, you've climbed way harder than this in the gym, so what's the difference?

Reading Routes on Rock VS in the Gym

You pull onto the start and look up. You see chalk out left, up the middle, and out to the right. Which way do you go? You've been hanging onto the start hold too long and are starting to get pumped. Let's try out right!

You reach out right and quickly realize your mistake. The slopey dish hold is impossible, so you try again and go up the middle. The two-finger pocket shocks you, and you let go.

By now, you're feeling a bit frustrated for not onsighting something well within your grade range. But you remind yourself that climbing is a continuous learning process. You just need the beta, and you'll be fine. This experience is not a failure but a valuable lesson that will make you a better climber.

You sit back and watch another climber cruise up the problem, using the left-hand hold and the two-finger pocket. I need to go out left, okay?

It's your turn again. You get ready, pull yourself off the ground, then reach out left and are greeted with the sharpest side-pull crimp you've ever felt.

You quickly fall onto your pad, letting somebody else try.

There's no way I can't not send this; my projecting grade is way harder.

Pad Management

The other group leaves and it's just you, your pals, and your one crash pad. "I'll just move it with you as you climb.”

They hop on the wall and power scream through the second holds. They hang on and start traversing right! Your hands are in the air to help guide them to the pad in case they fall; you've watched tons of bouldering videos.

They look down and shout, "Dude, move the pad!"

Sh*t. You slide the pad under them, and they keep moving. You're paying attention, moving the crashpad, and considering where they might fall. You're getting ready, but you must move the pad again when finally!

Your friend makes it to the top, and you all holler for him!

Downclimbing

How do they get down?

Your friends made a critical mistake; you should've checked out the downclimb beta. At the gym, you can just drop from the top. Crashpads aren't as thick as the mats inside, and boulders outside are often taller.

You checked Mountain Project but can't find the information on the descent. You walk around the boulder and find a lowish-angle wall with plenty of holds.

Your friend takes their time and eventually makes it to where they only need to hop down onto a crash pad. But wait, your other friend is already climbing on the boulder.

One of them is going to need to wait!